Porta Capuana looks every inch a triumphal arch, though it started out as a doorway with something to prove. When plague swept Naples in 1656, legend has it that the painter Mattia Preti, condemned to death for killing a guard at the quarantine checkpoint, bought back his life by offering to fresco every gate in the city for free. The fresco here is long gone, but the gate has outlasted worse.

It was built in 1484 for the Aragonese king Ferrante, its white marble arch carved with trophies and flying Victories, standing between two towers nicknamed Honour and Virtue. Once the surrounding walls came down, it stood alone, oddly monumental. Confusingly, the fortress across the road, Castel Capuano, took its name from this gate, not the reverse.

VoiceMap's self-guided tours launch from Porta Capuana into Naples's fiercer passions: religious devotion, footballing worship and the blood running through the city's history.