On the trail of Leipzig's communist past
About the Tour
Leipzig's streets still carry traces of the communist dictatorship that once ruled East Germany, from secret police surveillance to candlelit protest marches. On this walking tour, you'll follow the peaceful demonstrations that toppled East Germany's regime. You'll also hear what daily life was like under constant Stasi surveillance. Locals once called this city the ‘City of Heroes’ for its role in the revolution.
The tour starts outside the West Entrance of Leipzig's Hauptbahnhof, once dusted with Cold War placards and home to the Mitropa, a legendary railway canteen where disillusioned East Germans gathered over cheap beer. From there, you'll pass the mirrored Osthalle, built jointly by Saxons and Prussians, and cross toward the shuttered Astoria hotel, once a showcase of East German luxury. You'll continue along Richard-Wagner-Strasse and into the Brühl, historically the heart of Leipzig's Jewish-run fur trade.
You'll pass the former Stasi headquarters at the Runde Ecke, now a museum preserving its original surveillance rooms, and stand outside the Nikolaikirche, where prayers for peace sparked the demonstrations that filled Leipzig's ring road each Monday night in 1989. The tour ends at the City-Hochhaus, the city's tallest skyscraper, built to resemble an open book and nicknamed the ‘University giant’ under the East German regime.
On this 120-minute tour, you'll have a chance to:
- Visit the Thomaskirche, where Johann Sebastian Bach served as cantor for 27 years and is buried today
- Step into Mädler Passage's Auerbachs Keller, the cellar restaurant that inspired Goethe's Faust
- See Sighard Gille's ‘Song of Life’, one of Europe's largest ceiling frescoes, inside the Gewandhaus concert hall
- Learn why East Germans formed a resistance movement to save their beloved Ampel Man traffic lights
- Explore contemporary works by Leipzig painter Neo Rauch at the Museum der Bildenden Künste
- Wander through Specks Hof, Leipzig's oldest trade arcade, with its glass-covered courtyards
- Spot the golden Democracy Bell, commemorating the Monday demonstration that helped end East German rule
By the time you reach the City-Hochhaus, you'll understand exactly how a divided city found the courage to end a dictatorship.
Tour Producer
Fiona Rintoul
Originally from Glasgow, Fiona is an author, journalist and tour guide based in Scotland.
Languages are her passion, and she studied German at Leipzig University before the fall of the Berlin Wall. The experience of living in a communist country made a huge impression on her, and she later wrote a novel that drew on her experiences of being a Westerner in East Germany in the 1980s. The Leipzig Affair won the Virginia prize for women’s fiction and was serialised on BBC R4's Book at Bedtime with Douglas Henshall in the lead role.
Fiona is also the author of two books about whisky and a book about pathfinding in the islands of Lewis and Harris called A Place Like This, which will be published in 2027. She is a former Times columnist, and her journalism has appeared in a range of outlets, including the Glasgow Herald, the Financial Times and Handelsblatt.
Fiona is a fluent French and German speaker and a member of the Western Isles Tour Guide Association. She is currently learning Scottish Gaelic.
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Preview Location
Location 27
Mädler Passage
This is the Zeitgeschichtliches Forum Leipzig – the Leipzig conte...
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Major Landmarks
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Memorial Museum in the "Round Corner"
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St. Thomas Church
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Mädler-Passage
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Stadtgeschichtliches Museum Leipzig, Altes Rathaus
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St. Nicholas Church
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Oper Leipzig
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Gewandhaus
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Moritzbastei
Getting There
Route Overview
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Start locationWilly-Brandt-Platz 7, 04109 Leipzig, Germany -
Total distance3km -
Final locationCity-Hochhaus Leipzig, 04109 Leipzig, Germany -
Distance back to start location763.9m
Directions to Starting Point
Starting point: Leipzig Hauptbahnhof, Willy-Brandt-Platz, 04109 Leipzig
We'll be starting outside the West Entrance at Leipzig Hauptbahnhof, the central train station. Most trams and buses stop at Leipzig central station.
Tips
Places to stop along the way
For a real insight into contemporary Leipzig, I recommend a visit to the G2 Kunsthalle, which houses the Hildebrandt collection. It's on Gottschedstraße, across the ring road from the Stasi headquarters. It has a fascinating collection of contemporary art, much of it from the so-called New Leipzig School, as well as changing exhibitions. It's open on Wednesdays from 3pm to 8pm, but you can visit at other times by booking an English or German tour. Tours can be booked online on the gallery web site - g2-leipzig.de/en.
If you have time at the end of your walk, I recommend a trip to Café Grundmann on August-Bebel-Straße, an Art Deco coffee house in the arty Südvorstadt area of town. You can get there on a number 11 tram from Augustusplatz. Get off at Südplatz and walk down Schenkendorfstraße to August-Bebel-Straße. In Café Grundmann, you can enjoy delicious German food and wines. I particularly encourage you to try some German reds.
Best time of day
You can walk this route at any time of the day or night.
After dark, you'll feel the city's night-time buzz and perhaps be able to visualise the pro-democracy demonstrations that took place on Monday evenings during the Leipzig autumn of 1989, but you won't be able to stop off at the museums.
During the day you'll get a better view of the architecture and be able to visit museums and galleries that interest you. Avoid Mondays as most museums are closed then, though the Museum in the Runde Ecke is open Monday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm. The Museum der bildenden Künste (museum of fine art) is open Tuesday and Thursday to Sunday 10am to 6pm. On Wednesdays, it's open 12pm to 8pm. The Zeitgeschichtliches Form (contemporary history museum) is open 9am to 6pmTuesday to Friday and 10am to 6pm at the weekend. On Sundays, you can attend a service at the Thomaskirche. These take place at 9.30am and 6pm. If you're lucky, you might hear the St Thomas Boys Choir. If you want to be sure of hearing the choir, check the church's web site in advance - www.thomaskirche.org.
Precautions
Leipzig is generally a pretty safe city, and people are usually friendly. It can get quite hot and sunny in summer, so take some sunscreen and a bottle of water. In winter, it can get really cold, so wrap up warm.
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